Metro Detroit doesn’t turn out much in the way of smoked brisket worth mentioning. It’s hard to top the region’s rib tips and ribs, and there’s plenty of smoked chicken, but the best brisket I’ve found in town has been made in friends’ backyard smokers, and I rarely bother when it’s on a local menu. It’s a real hole in the region’s barbecue repertoire.
But there’s one exception to the rule, and it’s in an unlikely spot — Royal Oak’s Holiday Market. An upscale grocery store in Royal Oak doesn’t conjure the kind of vibe or atmosphere that one would think produces excellent brisket, but about five years ago Holiday hired chef Kirk Churchill, who previously worked at J-Bird Smoked Meats in Keego Harbor.
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